onerideaway
INDIA
A COUNTRY WITH A THOUSAND FACETS
Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow
Albert Einstein
India is a country that arouses strong emotions: you either love it or hate it. Despite the thousands of descriptions you can read before your trip, nothing beats direct experience to grasp its essence. You have to confront it to truly understand.
The population density can be overwhelming at times, as can the noise level, with the constant honking of horns and the heady smells of the streets. While this country pushes you out of your comfort zone, it is also full of wonders, delicious food and fascinating personalities.
It is a remarkable adventure, sometimes positive, sometimes negative. India is a country of contrasts, where wealth rubs shoulders with extreme poverty. A shock, certainly, but also an inexhaustible source of fascination.
THINGS TO KNOW
JANUARY 2024
VISA - For India there are two types of visa: the e-visa (see other); the single entry visa with a validity of 3-4 months (price 100usd/p). More details in the visa tab below
EXCHANGE - 1 USD = 83.48 INR
e-visa: This visa can be a multi-entry visa and will have a validity of up to 5 years, but must be activated upon entering the country by plane for the first time.
DOG - In fact, none of the last three documents were requested at customs.
- Chip required, but tag with owner's name and number may be accepted.
- Vaccinations: rabies (31 days to 136 months before arrival); dogs must be vaccinated against distemper, leishmaniasis, parvovirus and leptospirosis.
- Health certificate for India required and valid for 10 days.
- Import license issued by the Directorate General of Foreign Trade required.
- No Objection Certificate (NOC) to be requested before entering the country.
SIM - 399 rupees for 3gb/day (be careful you need help from a local to get a SIM card). 299 rupees supplement for 50gb.
DIESEL - 87.632 INR/L
INSURANCE - - we were unable to get our vehicle insured in India.
VEHICLE - The CPD is mandatory (maximum stay of 180 days out of 365 days). Remember to take a Fastag for the motorways, otherwise you will pay double the price. The purchase is made from street vendors that you will find just before the tolls. Make sure to check the category of the vehicle, the quality of the photos on the registration document, and that your name is spelled correctly.
Driving
We have crossed many countries with our van, but we have never encountered such road chaos. The first impression can be frightening: the sound of horns never stops, and the density of vehicles is impressive and it seems that everyone is driving in all directions, and not always in the right direction! Motorbikes, tuk-tuks, cars, vegetable carts, and even cows… Everyone is there. Stay alert and fasten your seatbelt!
The private sphere
Traveling with your motorhome attracts attention, especially in remote areas. While you may meet some wonderful people, you may also encounter intrusive behavior from some locals. Be prepared to see curious people gathering around your van, some people entering without asking permission, settling down and observing you for long minutes. Sometimes, they may even touch you without you wanting them to.
Nature spots
India is huge, with very diverse regions. The high population density makes camping difficult in some places. Near cities, finding the ideal spot is a challenge, but by moving away from the main roads and being patient, you can discover peaceful places in the heart of breathtaking nature.
Traveling in India by van has its pros and cons and is a very different experience than backpacking where you sleep in hotels or hostels. Weigh the pros and cons to understand your limitations and assess whether you are willing to respect them during such an adventure.
Traveling in India by van: for or against?
If we are asked the question: “Is it a good idea to travel with your van in India?”, it is likely that our answer will not be entirely affirmative.
Here are some caveats to consider before embarking on such an adventure.
Amritsar
The city of Amritsar is our first stop in India. This is where we find ourselves immersed for the first time in the noisy atmosphere, with horns blaring in all directions. The traffic is pure chaos, far surpassing anything we have experienced in Pakistan and Iran.
We soak up new smells, discover new faces and taste new flavors.
The Golden Temple
In Amritsar, we discover the unmissable Golden Temple, also known as Harmandir Sahib (the illustrious temple of God).
Here, everything is quieter, because it is a place where people come to recharge their batteries and meditate, often by placing their hands in namaste in front of the temple. The central part of the temple, covered in gold leaf, is surrounded by a marble building in various colors, inlaid with mother-of-pearl and semi-precious stones. It is located at a low point in the city, as if to symbolize its open welcome to all disciples.
A sacred pool surrounds the temple, attracting large numbers of people eager to immerse themselves in it for purification.
Dudhgarg, Remote Village
There are a few high peaks that catch our eye in Iran, including Alam Kuh which is in the Elbrus mountain range and is the second highest peak in the country.
We make this outing accompanied by Charlène, a friend who came from Switzerland to visit us and to discover Iran. What a pleasure to be able to share these moments in our trip with one of our loved ones!
In the village of Vandarbon, we take a track that leads us to the start of our outing. We still have 1500 m of elevation gain and 7 km to the top.
The next morning, we get up at 4:30 a.m. for a 5:30 a.m. departure. We savor the beautiful colors of the morning. The climb is going very well, apart from a cool wind that cools us down somewhat when we stop.
We arrive at the summit of Alam Kuh at 4,850 m, with a view of all the surrounding peaks. We stay almost 1 hour up there so much that it is beautiful.
New Delhi
We quickly understand why Delhi is the second largest city in the world. For us, it is the most impressive discovery of the trip. The feeling we experience is that of an ant lost in the middle of the crowd of an anthill.
In addition to its size, Delhi is home to millions of people with diverse characteristics. It is a city of extreme contrasts, where poverty and wealth, beauty and dirt, noise and stress coexist.
At first, this city scared us, but once immersed, we loved it. It is full of surprises: calming green spaces, incredible architecture and inhabitants with a thousand behaviors.
It is a city that you have to experience to understand.
Old Delhi
It is impossible to visit New Delhi without taking a trip to Old Delhi, the emblematic part of the metropolis, originally built as a walled city. Here you can explore bazaars and taste street food on Chandni Chowk.
What really struck us were the people. In Old Delhi, you have to take the time to sit on a bench and observe the fascinating characters passing by.
It's a real spectacle that you won't soon forget.
Taj Mahal
The Taj Mahal, also called the Crown of the Palace, is one of the seven wonders of the world. Its architecture, sober and majestic, is made of white marble, while the two mosques that surround it are built of red sandstone.
This monument was erected in memory of the wife of a great Mughal emperor, with whom he had fourteen children.
Jaipur
Jaipur, known as the "Pink City", is bustling with traffic of tuk-tuks, motorbikes, cars and even cows. Its colorful facades and archways decorated with gold-colored patterns are a testament to its wealth. The city is home to many buildings dedicated to royalty, such as palaces, gardens and pavilions.
The city's most famous landmark is the famous Hawa Mahal, or "Palace of Winds," which has 953 windows and five floors. Built in 1799, it allowed royal ladies to observe the city's daily life without being seen.
Monkey Temple
Near Jaipur, don't miss the monkey temple, known as Galtaji or the Sun God Temple. It is a Hindu pilgrimage site that includes three temples, sacred ponds and natural springs where many locals come to bathe.
Built into the side of a cliff, the temple is surrounded by nature. The environment is beautiful and, as its name suggests, it is home to many wild monkeys, mainly rhesus macaques. Be careful: they do not hesitate to approach, so it is best to keep your distance.
Chittorgarh Fort
Chittorgarh Fort is one of the largest fort in India. This gigantic site houses numerous temples and 65 historical structures, including four palaces, 19 temples, 20 water bodies, four memorials and a few victory towers, each with its own story.
The temple that fascinated us the most was the Samadishwara, with its large tower carved with magnificent details and its large water basin.
This region is also home to another species of monkeys, the langurs, considered sacred to the Indians. Be careful, as they can be aggressive.
Udaipur
Udaipur is considered one of the most romantic cities in India. Our first impression, upon arriving at the parking lot of the royal palace, only confirms this reputation.
The city is surrounded by numerous lakes and small mountains. Its alleys are lined with superb buildings decorated with bow windows and small shops.
However, the sound of horns and the heavy traffic of tuk-tuks and motorbikes quickly remind us that we are in India.
Visit to a school
For a while now, one of my desires in India was to discover the educational system. We stop near a village surrounded by greenery and calm. We enter the courtyard of a school where dozens of children are playing.
To our great surprise, we arrive on the national holiday, so no classes. This nevertheless gives us the opportunity to meet them and make friends. In less than three minutes, Sevan is playing hide-and-seek with them. The atmosphere is there!
Back to basics
Purna National Park attracts us with its lush green landscapes and small, remote villages. In India, it is not easy to find places to stay near natural parks and protected wild animals.
Yet, on the edge of the park, a man from the village, surprised to see our vehicle, invites us to stay. Within minutes, the villagers already know who we are.
Daring to get in touch with the population makes us live unique moments, offering unforgettable memories. Seeing these people happy to live simply reminds us that happiness is found in the small essential things of life.
Mumbai
This is where our paths temporarily separate. Chloe leaves for Switzerland for three weeks, while Sevan continues to discover the south of India.
He is not completely alone; a friend, Jeremy, joins him for a week and Sevan introduces him to this new culture. Together, they explore the south of Mumbai, which is full of historical monuments and old buildings. They stroll through the streets, taste local specialties and discover in particular the Gateway of India, Victoria Terminus station and Marine Drive.
Rajgad fort
Built on a mountain, the Rajgad Fort requires a steep path to reach it. It consists of two lines of ramparts. The first was built on a triangular plateau located 200 meters below the summit. After crossing another series of vertiginous stairs, we arrive at the foot of the second line of defense, where the most important buildings of the site are located.
Murud Village
By the sea, in the village of Murud, we admire the magnificent colorful houses and the fishing boats stranded on the shore.
The locals, with their warm smiles, invite us to play cricket with them for a while, the country's favourite game.
Beautiful Beaches of Goa
A two-hour drive from Arjuna, south of Goa, lies Kakolem Beach. Nestled at the foot of a cliff and surrounded by coconut trees, it is a little piece of paradise that we never imagined we would find in India.
Ellora Caves
Ellora Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is renowned for its exceptional rock-cut architecture and is an important symbol of ancient Indian art and culture.
This site comprises 34 caves, dug into the Charanandri Hills over a period of about five centuries, from the 6th to the 10th century AD. They exhibit a mixture of Hindu, Jain and Buddhist influences.
Our favorite is the Kailasa Temple, the most famous of the site. This cave is a colossal monolithic structure dedicated to Lord Shiva, considered one of the most impressive rock-cut temples in the world.
Ajanta Caves
The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ajanta Caves shares many features with the Ellora Caves, although there are some notable differences. Located on a river bank, they were excavated between the 2nd and 5th centuries AD, at least a century before the Ellora Caves. Unlike the latter site, Ajanta focuses primarily on Buddhist religious art, without the mix of Hindu cultures found at Ellora. Another striking distinction is the presence of magnificent, well-preserved frescoes that embellish the entire site.
Village rehabilitated
In many parts of India, the policy of protecting and rehabilitating natural habitats has allowed entire areas to return to their wild state. However, this raises an important question: what happens to the villages and their inhabitants located in the heart of these territories?
Arriving in the small village of Devhari, we realize that few tourists venture there. The locals welcome us so warmly that we quickly feel like part of their family. Spending time with them, we discover that this isolated village, located in a wildlife sanctuary, is doomed to disappear. All its inhabitants will have to leave their homes in the near future, and in compensation, they will receive compensation from the government.
These moments of sharing will remain engraved in our memories. As we leave this place, we wonder about the future of this village and its population.
Khajuraho City
Khajuraho is one of the many holy cities of India. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is famous for the beauty of its Hindu and Jain temples. Currently, there are 23 temples spread in and around the city, mainly known for their sculptures depicting scenes from daily life, as well as representations of the Kamasutra.
It is also here that we met wonderful people, with whom we shared beautiful memories.
Varanasi
Varanasi is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and holds immense cultural and religious significance in India. Situated on the banks of the sacred Ganges River, it is often considered the spiritual capital of the country.
The Ganges is revered by Hindus, who immerse themselves in its waters, especially at sunrise and sunset, to purify their bodies and release the souls of the deceased. Hindus also believe that spreading the ashes of the deceased in the river ensures a better future for them.
The city is famous for its ghats, a series of steps leading down to the river, where pilgrims perform rituals, including the public burial of bodies. While these rituals are common and hold great significance in the religion, it can be difficult for us to fully understand them, and we feel a certain apprehension about viewing parts of these ceremonies.
Chitrakoot
Chitrakoot is a wealthy and religious city of great importance to Hindus. Dotted with temples and sites associated with legends, it attracts many pilgrims. Often compared to the spiritual capital of the country, Varanasi, it is nicknamed "Little Varanasi". Although it is smaller than its elder, it is distinguished by its unique rituals, which take place mainly on the banks of the Mandakini River, where pilgrims come to purify themselves by bathing in it.
