onerideaway
TAJIKISTAN
“Travel is a return to the essential”
Tibetan proverbtain
This country is the first destination to really fall in love with us in Central Asia. What struck us the most is the human warmth that the people give off, the exchanges and sharing that we experience. But we will not forget these breathtaking landscapes and these wild valleys into which many trails have taken us.
June 2023
VISA - 10 days free, extension to 30 days in the capital in an OVIR office 220 TJS (attention you must present a registation in a hotel or hostel)
EXCHANGE - 1 CHF = 12.19 TJS
TAXES - Temporary importation of the vehicle, CHF 23.- for two weeks (extended to two months without surcharge if requested before payment)
DOG - Microchip not required, rabies vaccination between 30 days and one year, health certificate required (does not always have to be shown)
SIM - 50 gb and 100 gb for social networks for 150 TJS at T CELL
PETROL - 0.85 CHF/L
INSURANCE - 136 TJS/month
OTHER - For the Pamir zone, a permit is necessary. The latter can be purchased in the capital in an OVIR office for 50TJS/p
THINGS TO KNOW
Artuch Valley
When we arrive at the end of the valley, we discover a kind of large inn in the distance. A gentleman welcomes us there and lets us sleep in his field.
This will be our starting point to explore the beautiful mountains and discover the beautiful lakes. which surround us in particular Lake Chukurak. In this valley there are countless hiking routes and dozens of mountain lakes. Our route takes us to the Aulodinn pass culminating at an altitude of 3750 m.
Meeting with nomads
In the valley mentioned above we also meet a small family of shepherds who live here during the summer. They invite us and offer us to taste products of their production, kefir and fresh milk drawn right now in front of us. This family lives in simplicity and their children radiate happiness.
Pamir Highway
We finally set off on the famous M41, better known as the Pamir Highway. This road, built during the Soviet era, connects Afghanistan and Kyrgyzstan via Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. It is considered one of the highest roads in the world, including a passage at an altitude of 4,655 m at the Akbaital pass. The first kilometers of road are in relatively good condition, but the situation changes significantly as soon as we move along the Afghan border. The bitumen road with sections under construction turns into a fairly narrow track clinging to steep walls overlooking a very moving river.
Does it work or does it not work?
This is the very first time on our trip that we have taken so many trails to discover remote valleys. To do this, we must take precautions and get out of the van regularly to check the condition of the trail on foot or the condition of certain bridges before being able to cross them.
Vanj Valley
We drive a few dozen kilometers on a well-trodden track, along which we cross fords before reaching the most remote village in the valley, Poymazor. Many locals come to meet us, curious to see us arrive here. We then go to a second small village, Vanvani Bolo planted between fields and under the tops of tall trees. This place is really peaceful and beautiful. As we walk around, the locals greet us with big hand gestures or give us big smiles. We can't walk two meters without someone inviting us to drink tea.
Cut off from the world
We have barely left the main road when we once again take to unpaved roads which lead us into a new valley, that of Aulauddin. The latter is located right next to the Artuch Valley which is the first place we discovered in the country. We discover the most beautiful valley we have seen so far. We will stay for a few days in this green setting where there is no network. Sometimes it feels good to disconnect from our world and live in another world where time seems to be stopped in another era.
The Fann Mountains
We are taking new trails taking us as close as possible to our next mountain outings. We park in the garden of a caretaker who welcomes us very warmly. From here, we set off to discover the surrounding area which offers countless magnificent landscapes, including superb lakes surrounded by beautiful forests.
Energia, 5120 m
In this valley, there are also high climbs to be made. There is Chimtarga, which is the highest peak in the Fann Mountains, peaking at 5489 m above sea level. This mountain is located opposite Pic l’Energia with its 5120 m. We thought about climbing this second mountain, but unfortunately the weather decided otherwise. We have to stop at the foot of the summit which nevertheless allows us to admire the many 5000 people around us.
Unforgettable encounter
In Tajikistan, apart from the kindness of the people and the beauty of the landscapes, one of the elements that marks us the most is the smiles that make the faces of the people whose paths we meet shine. In the Alauddin valley, in a little corner of paradise we find a shepherds' camp. There, we meet some children with such legendary smiles. We also meet their families, shepherds living in the mountains. They welcome us as if we have always been part of their family.
Tajik welcome
As is often the case in this country, a small family having a picnic greets us warmly and offers us to sit with them. They then welcome us into their homes where we have the honor of tasting a typical recipe of the region, pilaf. This dish is made from rice, carrots, onions and meat (most often lamb, but the one we taste is made from beef).
The welcome we get from these people, whom we didn’t know less than 24 hours earlier, is just fabulous.
